Albania - The Rising Star of the Mediterranean

“In 1991 this country had no idea about the existence of bananas.” Said my guide, Ergys. We stood at the edge of the savannah-like Skanderbeg Square, between the Opera House and the monumental soviet style mosaic that clads the front of the National Museum.

            “My parents were so scared it took them 3 months to even try a banana.” A soft smile crossing his tanned face. “And even then, my mother waited for 3 hours after my dad ate his before she tried hers.” The grin expanded as we chuckled, “She was a wise woman.” In that short exchange Ergys had summed up the amount of change that Albania has seen in the last 34 years.

            Albania’s history is a tapestry woven by conquerors from Romans, Ottomans and even Mussolini’s fascists, all have come and left their mark. The resilient Illyrians, from whom the Albanians consider themselves descended, resisted the Romans, and instilled that spirit of defiance that still persists in the Albanian character today. More recently the country emerged from 50 years of communist rule, with the final 30 years being marked by almost total isolation under the dictator Enver Hoxha.

Tirana: A City in Transition

            Tirana reflects this rapid growth more than anywhere else in Albania. A 360 degree turn in the huge Skanderbeg Square reveals 7 towering buildings, some still under construction – a clear indication of Tirana's rapid growth and aspirations. It is home to around a third of Albania’s 2.5 million population, giving it small and intimate feel compared to it’s European counterparts.

            The majority of Tirana’s sites of interest are in the area around the 40,000sqm Skanderbeg Square, itself honouring the partisan hero of Albanian history, Gjergi Skenderbeu. Cornered by the Opera House, The National Museum and a few ministry buildings its vast expanse gives a wonderful feeling of freedom. People coast by on bikes, couples sit hand in hand watching the day go by and shouts of glee from a group of children kicking a ball about give the square a flavour of Tiranian life.

The old and new of Tirana are represented by the Et’hem Bey Mosque in one corner of Skanderbeg. It’s a survivor from the 1700’s and one of the few mosques in the world to be decorated with beautiful depictions of mountains, rivers and waterfalls. Only 200m behind it is the brand-new Great Mosque of Tirana, a copy of Istanbul's Blue Mosque, so modern that it is not quite finished.

            Bunkart 1 and 2 offer vivid depictions of life under communist rule and in particular under the isolation of Hoxha. These underground complexes serve as stark reminders of Albania's recent past and left me feeling quite emotional. Coming back up into the sunlight of early July, hearing the mixture of languages in the streets and the sound of construction really highlighted the country’s remarkable transformation

            A short walk from here you can visit the Sky Tower for a glimpse of the futuristic transformation. Its revolving restaurant 20 floors up provides a panoramic view of the rapidly changing skyline. It is a wonderful place to enjoy a drink and reflect on just how far Tirana has come in the last 30 years.

The only comparable view is from the sentinel like Mount Dajti which overlooks the city. A number 11 blue bus will take you to the Cable Car Station from where you glide some 1300mtrs into the air to the Llark Plateau, where you can sit in the sunshine, listen to the cicadas and absorb the glory of city and the plains below. (It’s worth noting that the cable car is closed every Tuesday. This is not that well publicised but on my first attempt led me to a sit with a few locals who had taken the time to sit by the gate and tell everyone it was closed. About that they were right, about Harry Kane winning England the Euros in a final against France, they were wrong.)

            Back in Tirana, the culinary scene centres around Pazari I Ri, where the aroma of grilled meats mingles with local specialities like byrek (spinach and cheese pastries) and Tava I Cobanit (a hearty vegetable and cheese dish) along with the Italian influence that is prevalent in much of Albania’s food. For a more formal dining experience, try the restaurants within Tirana Castle or enjoy the bustling bars along Murat Toptani street.

Beyond Tirana: Albania’s Diverse Offerings

            As with all countries, focusing on the capital often comes at the expense of the other less well-known parts of a country. Sarande and Ksamil for example, are beach resorts with all the accoutrements you would expect from the Mediterranean coast. Beaches and glistening clear Ionian turquoise waters are lined with seafront restaurants. The laughter of children on the beach fades, as the sun goes down, to be replaced by the music drifting from the numerous bars; as the heat wanes, you can explore the evening street markets or just enjoy the sea air with lights glittering off the gentle swell in the bay.  As the night progresses themed party boats leave the harbour for the more extroverted holiday maker to dance the night away under the stars.

            The UNESCO site of Gjirokaster (The Stone City) an hour to the north, offers a snapshot of the Ottoman world. Traditional houses cling to the hillside and overlook the imposing fortress which rises above the town. The bustling old town and bazaar are lined with shops and stalls as well as bars and restaurants providing the perfect place to wander or, if you are like me, to people watch. Unlike a lot of European counterparts, the historical sites of Albania are wonderfully uncrowded. In the fortress you can wander to your hearts content, exploring nooks and crannies and dreaming Netflix-worthy dreams.

            Berat (The City of 1000 Windows), also a UNESCO site, is a photographer’s dream. A cultural centre of Albania, blending churches and mosques, and the old medieval city that clings to the underside of the Berat Castle. The castle itself offers truly staggering views of the confluence of the Ossum and Molisht rivers, and is thought to have been built to protect the original land trade routes to ancient Greece. In the days of dictatorship Berat was where the free-thinkers were sent to ‘keep them out of the way’. It’s not clear whether the energy drew these people or these people created the energy but Berat is city imbued with the feeling of artistry.

            Berat is also deep in the heart of Albanian wine country. There are two large wineries within easy reach. Both offer an insight into what is now the 5th biggest wine producing country in Europe. Personal wine recommendations would be Cobo Wineries Puls and sparkling Shendevere, delectable accompaniments to a sunny afternoon.

What Does the Future Hold​?

Albania is fast racing towards the 21st century and accruing many aspects of western tourism along the way. In 2023 it recorded 10 million visitors, a 26% increase on the previous year. With the impact of tourist saturation in many parts of Europe hitting the headlines the hope is that this wonderful country will push forward in a positive way. The new generation of European Albanians have seen the benefits of change and hopefully have also seen the pitfalls, the country is in their more than capable hands. My guide Ergys notes, “We have only had 10 years of practice, so please know we may be a bit rough around the edges.” He laughs. “I’m still trying to explain my job to my dad. I tell him I’m a guide. He tells me I speak English so I must be a translator.” He smiles openly, tilting his head slightly, he is of a generation that knows his past but welcomes the abundant changes in Albania, The Land of the Eagle.

Practicalities

July and August can be very hot in Albania. Late spring and early autumn are great times to visit.

The currency is the Albanian Leke. It is a closed currency but the majority of shops, bars and restaurant also accept Euros. It’s worth noting that not a great deal of places take card payments. Always have cash.

Flights from most major UK cities are between £30-50 but this can vary throughout the year.

Links that may also be of Interest:

Destination - Albania - Land of the Eagles - by Matt Dennis